Shoe of the year 2009: Trib Two by YSL

Every once in a while there comes a shoe that will stand out from the masses-YSL Trib Two’s taking the ‘Shoe of the Year Award’ in 2009. It becomes a trend and will be considered iconic, great potential to become a shoe legend. Each season there is one shoe that becomes the staple of every top celebrity wardrobe. In the past we have had the Lanvin ballet pump and the Louboutin wedges, but this season is all about the Yves Saint Laurent Trib Two. You know the shoes, black (or gunmetal grey or chocolate brown), round-toe, platform and high, high, high spindly heel. First seen in the A/W ’08 collection and immediately snapped up by Lily Allen, Heidi Klum, Victoria Beckham and Eva Longoria, but the Trib Two shoes haven’t faded away as the sun has come out. In fact, they are currently proving more popular than ever with Kate Moss, Beyonce and Natalie Imbruglia all spotted wearing them in the past four days. The style has been carried over for S/S ’09 – a sign that the shoes are a sure-fire hit – which means that those of us who aren’t A-listers can get our tootsies into them…well, after saving first.
Platform pump in black textured leather features 4” stiletto heel 1” platform with golden sole and lining- have been worn by like at least 2 dozen celebrities, from the most widely known to the less. Almost anyone who’s  famous and can afford them owns a pair. In my opinion, the title “Shoe of the year” is really deserved: these shoes have an unique shape, they don’t need any embellishment in order to be fabulous. This is the main difference between this shoe and the the others: the beauty of Trib Two is in the structure , not in bright colours or paillettes and so on, often used by the designers to move the attention from the lack of creativity to the sparkling accessories. Another goal of  “less is more” credo.

Victoria Beckham is worth a special mention-she loves these shoes, and has been spotted wearing around 5 different colours. She claims to love them so much because of their comfort. Are you serious?!

Luxury Footwear Industry

Who is beyond our desires? Which are the main marketing techniques of luxury design houses? Let’s take a journey.

  The luxury goods industry is unique in that it is an industry that relies strictly on marketing and promotion to sell products to a specified group of people . Although a select few are able to afford luxury goods, the vast majority of people who are exposed to advertisements for certain products generally have aspirations of being able to own these products someday. Footwear industry is truly global in scope in that manufacturers can now sell different products that are produced in different countries and spanning many different continents and a multinational strategy is necessary to implement because it allows manufacturers to increase their revenues by focusing on selling their products in countries with rapidly growing economies. This industry serves two types of consumers: for the practical consumer, it provides sensible and affordable footwear which style will not change drastically from year to year, and for the fashion-conscious consumer, industry type will attempt to provide styles of footwear that will keep up with the current season’s trends and for which it is able to command a price premium.Footwear industry is  highly competitive and fragmented due to low barriers of entry. It is fairly easy for new companies to enter into footwear industry, however most companies lack staying power. Technology has expanded operations of footwear industry to a more global scale. It has also provided closer working relationships between retailers and manufacturers. Technology has improved efficiency and has reduced the amount of manual labor.Distribution is a key factor to the success of apparel or a footwear companies. It is important for manufacturers to understand customer trends and attitudes toward different retail outlets. The main concern of manufacturers is to ensure that the retailers’ prices for branded products matches the brand’s image. Lowering the price of these products weakens the brand image in the mind of the consumer.Brand names are becoming increasingly important to consumers as disposable income and the amount of time consumers are able to shop around is slowly diminuishing. Therefore consumers are relying more on established brand names and the images they convey when purchasing products. From the manufacturer’s point of view, brands build customer loyalty, which generates repeat business. Companies are now putting more emphasis into market research to keep up with their customers’ needs and current trends in the marketplace : it involves shorten cycles of design, development, marketing and distribution. In order to survive, companies must constantly come up with new designs, new product line extensions, or even new product lines. These products may be developed either internally or externally through acquiring other companies and/or licensing agreements.

  Luxury goods manufacturers like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Hermes, Burberry, Versace, Prada, and Chanel are concentrating their efforts on targeting Japanese consumers. Over the past three years these European designers have been opening more and more boutiques in Tokyo.European luxury labels thrived in Japan in 2002 while other sectors of the economy drastically weakened. Prada’s earnings in Japan alone for 2002 was $3.3 billion while worldwide profits fell 45%. Louis Vuitton, who currently holds 46 boutiques in Japan, earned approximately $1.4 billion in sales for 2002. “Exclusive” European fashion labels have become commonplace among Japanese consumers, and Japan has become one of the world’s first mass market for luxury goods. In 2000, luxury goods companies have become one the strongest contenders in the world’s financial markets and have a rapidly growing consumer sector. At the end of 1999, luxury goods brands like Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Hermes had gains of over 100%. Gucci reported gains of a 178% end-of-year increase in its stock and a 70% leap in profits to $273.2 million. There’s a combination of factors driving this sector, which has been booming since mid-1999. The recovery in the Asian markets is by far the most important, as this is a crucial area for a lot of these brands, and a stronger yen has also increased the spending power of Asian tourists. Lastly, there is generally a lot of new wealth, generated by the strength of the stock market and the e-economy. Luxury goods brands are largely dependent on its Asian consumers; 40% of Gucci’s sales revenue comes from Asia. In the past three years, luxury goods brands are beginning to broaden their appeal to a wider consumer base. An example of this would be the emergence of e-commerce and how the Internet can be advantageous for luxury goods brands to create and reinforce their brand image and at the same time increasing brand awareness. However, industry analysts are skeptical about luxury goods brands selling their products online, which would reduce the exclusivity associated with these brands. Analysts say that e-commerce is below them.

 An example of strategy in luxury companies: Gucci

 Domenico De Sole, the Italian-born, 53-year old president and CEO of the Gucci Group, has staged the biggest company turnaround and brand renaissance in high-fashion history-and practically overnight. When De Sole took the reins in 1994, the fabled Florentine company was perilously close to bankruptcy, plagued by years of bruising infighting among the Gucci family members. Recklessly selling schlocky goods, they had trashed the once glamorous brand name. Production was at a standstill, suppliers hadn’t been paid, and the workforce was angry and dispirited. Now Gucci has become one of the fastest-growing luxury goods brands with 158 international boutiques, and revenues have skyrocketed since 1993 and were expected to hit $1 billion in 1997. Net profits doubled to $168 million during 1995-1997. De Sole says his goal for Gucci is to keep pace with larger competitors like privately held Chanel, with estimated revenues of $2 billion, and he boasts that sales already surpassed those of rival Hermes in 1996. De Sole’s marketing strategy consisted of:

 • Making Gucci a recognized leader in the high-fashion industry. • Recapture Gucci’s heritage of quality • Lowering prices • Creating a unity of style in boutiques around the world • Running provocative advertisements in top fashion magazines to show Gucci’s changing brand image• Creating a consistent advertising campaign worldwideDe Sole’s management philosophy is that of consistency because he believes that consistency is the distinguishing factor of great brands. De Sole indicated that a valuable lesson that he has learned is over distribution would ruin the idea of exclusivity of luxury brands.

Acquisitions Over his 40-year career of making women’s shoes, Sergio Rossi earned the reputation of being one of the world’s leading couture footwear makers. In November 1999, the Gucci Group NV bought out 70% of Calzaturficio Sergio Rossi in hopes of bringing his craftsmanship to the whole world. The lion’s share of Gucci’s $40 million investment will go to doubling the number of freestanding Sergio Rossi stores in the next three years, particularly in the U.S. and Japan. Gucci will also expand production—now just 550,000 pairs annually—by a third and will entrust to Sergio Rossi the manufacturing of a new Rive Gauche footwear line for Yves Saint Laurent, the French group Gucci bought in 1999. The acquisition of Sergio Rossi will test Gucci’s strategy and ability to manage a portfolio of brands by means of acquisitions. For Gucci, whose greater strength is in bags and apparel, Sergio Rossi’s shoes fit nicely. Sergio Rossi remained faithful to its specialization in one product. That’s exactly why Gucci bought them’. Creative director, Tom Ford, devised a new marketing strategy for Sergio Rossi that was unveiled in spring 2001. In the meantime, Rossi planned on expanding his product lines to a men’s collection, a line of handbags, and leather goods. Currently Rossi remains the company’s creative director and has 30% ownership.

   

Men&Heels

A guest at the Rad Heroni fashion show in New York last month has heels as tall as his hat.

From Toronto to New York to Paris, young men are squeezing their big feet into high heels from the women’s shoe department. It should be noted these are not  Wall St. bankers, or drag queens looking for cheap patent pumps . They are fashion fanatics and only the hottest labels in women’s footwear will do: Balenciaga, Rodarte and Alexander Wang. The high heels are not feminine. They are aggressive and edgy in shape and style, typically stacked on sturdy platforms.Or they are heels with heft, ideal for fashionable men with no interest in full-on cross-dressing. They prefer to rock their streamlined heels with skinny jeans, T-shirts and perhaps a leather jacket. And because they’re hard-core fashionistas with personal style, they add their own twists, such as a big hat. Take  Cary Tauben, a stylist. Tauben attended a presentation at New York fashion week in the hipster attire of a grungy rock star – tight black jeans, leather jacket, and knit beanie hat over waist-length black hair. But on his feet, were a pair of European size 41 women’s high-heeled boots, a purchase from the fashion mecca of trendiness, Top Shop.Tauben got hooked on heels a few years ago when he bought a pair from cool New York boutique Opening Ceremony, and now he rarely wear flat shoes. The last time men wore elevated heels was in the 1970s when hyper masculine rock stars such as Gene Simmons from KISS and glam rocker performers David Bowie and Elton John pranced around both on and off stage in towering platform shoes. High heels make the wearer feel taller, fierce and it goes with a rock’n’roll attitude. It’s not so much sexual for many of these men, but they describe heels as masculine and aggressive, like they’re feeling in command with a warrior like confidence.Remarkably, it was warriors who first wore heels centuries ago.The high heel was a Near East (Turkey and Persia) invention and military men on horse back wore them. Heels for men then showed up in western dress for the first time in the 1590s — mostly in places like England with some references in Italy as a sign of masculine power and equestrian strength. While men were the early adopters, upper-class women followed immediately and the high heel became a symbol of status.By the end of the 17th century, when the heel started to become feminized, men abandoned it until the 1970s.And now there are small signs that it could be making a resurgence.Yves Saint Laurent has been pushing a stacked three-inch heel boot for men for a few seasons now. Canadian shoe designer John Fluevog issued a gleaming platinum men’s boot on a heel of the same height last season. It sold out immediately. Rad Hourani, a Canadian designer who shows at New York fashion week, has been sending male and female models down the runway in the same chunky heeled square-toe boot for several seasons. For fall 2010 we saw an open-toe boot, worn with socks.But it’s in the men’s shoe department at Barneys in Manhattan where the ultimate high heel for men resides: a sleek towering platform wedge ankle boot – almost 13 centimetres tall – by designer Rick Owens.

Tendences: fall 2010

Luckly, summer is just began and we have more than two months of time to put on our beautiful, open sandals. However hot and summer passes quickly away and we’ve got to be ready to the bad season, in a fashion sense. The best way is to know the earliest is possible what stylists have prepared for us, select what we like and buy. If we are fast and good tasted, we’re gonna be the first to carry a certain model of shoes and an example for our friends. So, let’s see them!

Nicholas Kirkwood for Rodarte Shoes Fall 2010

Nicholas Kirkwood is designing footwear for Rodarte again this upcoming Fall 2010, probably with a pay raise because his last collaboration with the luxury brand was pure genius. This time around Rodarte designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s collection centered around the theme ‘sleepwalking’, so Kirkwood had the heels cleverly designed to look like melting wax. And most fabulous of all, the heels slightly glow, as if lit, in the dark. The upper portions of the shoes are twisted swaths of fabric around the ankle and toes, with a contrasting oxford style lace up middle portion, giving the shoes an overall very distinctive look. Some of the shoes have upper portions that are all cut out, lace up in style, but have the twisted fabric swaths at the ankles.

Another hit collaboration for Nicholas Kirkwood and Rodarte.

 

Christian Louboutin Shoes Fall 2010

Christian Louboutin
Nude lace and Swarovski crystal hidden-platform pump.

My overall impression of the Christian Louboutin shoes is a bit ho-hum, however I LOVE the above shoe and I will spend everything in my checking account to make them mine. This collection and the Spring 2010 feature shoes embellished with Swarovski crystals and they really shimmer and shine far more than ordinary crystals.

Some creations from this collection are not really stunning, like the pyton over-the-knee boots. The last one has a terrible heel, but the pureness of the white is amazing.

 

Christian Louboutin
Double-platform satin sandal with crisscross straps, buckle detail, and Swarovski crystal-covered heel.

Christian Louboutin
Leopard-print pony-hair peep-toe mule with Swarovski crystal-covered heel and nutria-fur trim.

Christian Louboutin
Swarovski crystal and mesh ankle boot with hidden platform.

Christian Louboutin
Toundra platform bootie in calf leather with coyote fur and double buckle straps.

Christian Louboutin
Pointy-toe stiletto over-the-knee boot in Roccia python.

Christian Louboutin
Fuchsia satin round-toe, kitten-heel pump with Swarovski crystal-covered toe and heel.

Christian Louboutin
Black suede pointy-toe stiletto over-the-knee boot with fox-fur pompoms.

  

Alexander McQueen Shoes Fall 2010

Alexander McQueen
Wing-embroidered platform sandal

AMAZING. Alexander McQueen’s last works were his best, in my opinion. This collection was inspired by the art of the Dark Ages, but finding light and beauty in it, as his usual theme of contrasts. These shoes are truly works of art. The heels and platforms depict religious iconography in some of the shoes, while others are updated versions of shoes from past collections, like the winged Faithful booty.

Alexander McQueen
Mock-croc buckle ankle boot with floral heel.

 

Alexander McQueen
Gold wing-embroidered Faithful bootie.

Christian Dior Shoes Fall 2010

There were three distinct styles of shoe at the Christian Dior Fall 2010 show, and all were boots of some sort. My favorite is the above lace ankle boot with corset style lacing up the back of the ankle. So, so pretty and sexy. They are definitely on my ‘must have’ list. I like the other two designs as well, although they are a bit conservative for Dior, … I know, current times. The latter boots are very stylish and chic, with a distinct equestrian element that was Galliano’s theme for Fall 2010. Overall, this is one of my favorite collections this season.

 

Fendi Shoes Fall 2010

Karl Lagerfeld’s Fendi Fall 2010 collection was slightly countrified, with muted palettes of gray, navy, beige, and mustard. The theme is consistent with what he did for the Chanel Spring 2010 collection, and although the shoes are very different, they are equally boring and unflattering.

The Fendi collection was a play on the sensible and utilitarian with high-heeled booties detailed with ribbed rubber toe caps and top lacing akin to Wellingtons or the muckers that horsey girls wear in the stable yard. Even the ‘dressy’ mary jane style shoes sported the silly rubber toe cap, not exactly a compliment to purple silk.

I get that collections are designs reflective of the current times, but why not give us something pretty to make us happy in an otherwise bleak time.

 

Truly killer

Rodarte shoes are the emblem of killer heels. It’s diffucult to imagine the enormous amount of applications these shoes do have: you can go from personal defense to kicking the bottom of your worst enemy and so on. I wonder if I have a pair of these how many times I would use them! Apart from jokes, I absolutely love the punkish style of these shoes,the gold warm shade, the dominatrix heels and the dangerous points that may sting your own skin if you don’t pay attention (no, this is not amazing). These shoes are product in collaboration with the “master of the red sole” Christian Luboutin. I like them in combination with teared collants.

How to make high heel shoes

Even if  I will never be able to  make a shoe, it’s interesting to know the basilar steps to make one. Wouldn’ t be amazing if everybody could create the stilettos of their dreams?

Step 1

Measure the length and width of the feet of the person for whom the shoes are being made. Be certain to measure accurately and measure both feet, as these measurements may vary.

Step 2

Find a last, or a model, that closely matches the measurements of the wearer’s feet.

Step 3

Design the style of the shoe, and cut out the individual pieces from the material you choose to make the shoe. Cut out the counters, the pieces which cover the back and sides of the feet. Cut out the vamp, or the piece that covers the toes and foot’s top and is sewn into the counter. Stretch the vamp over the last with a pair of pliers and tack it into place.

Step 4

Soak the leather that forms the soles in water until it become pliable.

Step 5

Cut the soles into the shape specified by the design, and beat it on a lapstone, a stone held in the cobbler’s lap, with a mallet into a smooth shape. Cut a groove that becomes the indent where the stitching is inserted along the edge of the sole. Mark holes in this groove to show where you will put the stitches.

Step 6

Glue the sole to the upper or vamp, then sew the 2 pieces together using a double-stitch. Use 2 needles at the same time, but have the stitches go in alternate directions so that one stitch is done from the top while the other is done from the bottom. Make certain to use the same holes with both needles, so the effect resembles weaving.

Step 7

Attach the heels to soles with nails. In the case of high heels, the heels themselves could be made of varying materials. Hand-made heels may be made of wood, while machine-made heels are made of plastic. Cover the heel with a material that matches or complements the rest of the shoe, and glue or stitch it in place.

Step 8

Trim the sole, and remove any nails so you can remove the shoe from the last. Finish the shoe with any linings you may desire. Polish the shoe if the material allows it, or stain it any color.

The open concept shoe-Mojito

Architect and product designer Julian Hakes has generated a lot of buzz surrounding his latest shoe design, the Mojito. First seen on Dezeen and then picked up by Gizmodo, this unique shoe concept has sparked much conversation ,since no photographs have been released showing an actual foot wearing it. Unlike a traditional shoe, the Mojito doesn’t have a foot plate. Design supports only the ball and heel, wich makes the wearer feel like she’ s walking on hair. The need for less material arose because of our foot’s naural arch, wich spans the grap between the two support points. The open concept shoe is made of cartoon fiber, laminated with rubber on the side that touches the floor and leather on the side next to the skin . The design consist of a single piece that wraps around the wearer’s foot. Certainly more appropiate for red carpets and special events, than a daily walking shoe, the design is functional and will surely gain attention.

“Most shoes are designed from outside in- they’re designed to look good on the pot. As an architect i did the opposite and design them from the inside out- i looked at how the foot moves, how it transfers the body’s load” said Hakes. In order to elaborate this concept, Hakes  seems to have took inspiration from Coco Chanel and Mies van der Rohe: less is more. Not bad for a shoe named like an overrated mint cocktail.

 

 

Weird:elephant dung shoes

Here you are the “elephant dung” shoes.That’s right. A pair of neon bright pumps with  beads running down the lenght of its 10-inch stiletto heel. And an approximately 7-inch platform made from elephant feces. Titled “Anything comes when it comes to (S)hoes” the women’s heels are part of an art exhibit on dispaly at the Tate Britain museum in London. They were created by UK street artist, INSA, as a response to Chris Ofili’ s controversial “The Holy Virgin Mary” painting from the late 1990s that depicted Mary as a black african woman and also utilized elephant dung. The dung INSA used actually comes from the same elephant herd that Ofili used, and it may have even come from the same elephant. If you want, you can order one from INSA website. So, what is the conclusion?Is it art or literally dung? INSA is not the first using such materials. How to forget the famous “Merda d’Artista” by Manzoni, or the orinatory by Marcel Duchamp? These shoes are not art masterpieces, but they’re  funny and center their goal: provoke some reaction.

 

 

Black (and red) Divina

Divine could be an overstatement for these Yves Saint Laurent Divine Peep-Toe Platforms,but, somehow, it could really be a great footwear since it could work out a dull look and create a somewhat divine appeal on your entirety.It may be a little classic in black shade,but the design and the style of this sandal is definitely modern. Black velvet leather is present on the strap across the toe and on the back heel, giving it natural sumptuosness. The crossover straps on the front and on the ankle part is actually made of elastic straps, letting you walk in this sandals with ease. The platform and the heel also look very interesting in stingray print, giving this sandal a hint of exoticness and a touch of monochrome glamour. The heel measures about five inches high, while the platform is about one inch, and it should be enough to elevate your height and fashion sense.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Red footwear simply slips a hint of wild and fierce look to any woman, more so if it is  in exotic skin. For such ,it is very evident that these pumps would bring such an appeal with its dark red shade and eel skin style. The pumps look classic, yet the eel skin-like style definitely make this exotic and fierce. red is as well a very feminine shade, so a pump such as this coming in red shade simply makes it just the right thing. Another interesting feature of this pump is the covered pin heel of 4 1/2 inches high. Actually it looks higher than just 4 1/2 inches, since the pin style looks very slender and straight. This also has a platform of 3/4 inches  for added height. To wear in occasions wich only require sitting and a few walk, like restaurant going.

 

 

 

Open toe by Ferragamo

The design of these shoes is distinct, featuring leather petals with metal studs and a contrasting two tone metal spike heel. The colour reminds of Autumn/Winter atmosphere and shades, with its deep and dark-mooded purple.The massive double rubber platform contrasts with the extreme tickness of the heel. The detail is fish-scale like, in a Koi sort of way.Koi in the Japanese art is a magic fish, symbol of courage, and depicted in tattoos has been on the rise in popularity for some time now. Perfect to wear in a cold, gloomy and misterious night of November. Fortunately not that time.